Elgin Master Catalog includes nearly every original Elgin part number from before Hamilton Electric Repair and service or click here or here. Hamilton Electric Repair and service info starts on book page or click here or here. Original, Blancpain, Certina, Mido watch. Color pictures, dimensions, power reserve NAWCC Chapter has some excellent free technical manuals and books free books in pdf format on their pages.
Cadillac manuals. Chevrolet manuals. Chrysler manuals. Citroen manuals. Dacia manuals. Daewoo manuals. Daihatsu manuals. Datsun manuals. Dodge manuals. Eagle 98 manuals. Ferrari manuals. FIAT manuals. Ford manuals.
GMC manuals. Holden manuals. Hummer manuals. Hyundai manuals. Infiniti 57 manuals. Isuzu manuals. To me, this is fantastic! A watch beeing in motion throughout a day and showing precise time! Why do we still develop watches and clocks: because we can, for the mere spirit and fun!
Examening a Peter Hehenlein watch ? IS exciting, not only for the technology, the workmanship but also for the pure existance of it. I think nobody will check an Attiny in years. Used rubidium standards go for surprisingly cheap online. How can I achieve a sufficient precise rate with this device? Using a RTC or an external clock changes things.
The above calculus let me to the statement about Attiny precision. Been there, done that. Getting them to be within 10 ppm of UTC yes, time! You know what I mean is the tricky part. And when they break you throw the worthless things away that is why they are considered thow out movements. I love mechanical things,.. Digital watches are lame because everybody wears those, it takes somebody with class to see the value of an old fashioned mechanical watch.
Always wanted to do this! Thanks for compiling all the info. I have a hour mechanical wind-up pocket watch that uses the vintage jeweled design, but with all new parts. Now I have an excuse to pick up one next time I go to an antique market. I wonder if this same design is upscaled when dealing with larger vintage wind clocks. Hi CJ, clocks are alot different. Clocks are under significantly more torque from the mainspring.
But, just like watches a clock simply needs to be taken apart, cleaned, and oiled. Sometimes the bushings need to be replaced, this is rather involved. Be careful when bringing down the mainspring on a clock, it is very dangerous, suggest you put it in a drill chuck and dump the energy into the drill. Other than the power of the mainspring clocks really seem easier to me. That is my profession is clock repair and I find the larger size parts much easier and more forgiving to work with. However I suppose different people find different things easier.
And really to let the power off a main spring all you really need is a screwdriver to let the click off the ratchet, and a let down key, and to hold the let down key with a cloth with a strong grip, turn it as if to wind it before letting off the click and then barely loosen your grip on the let down key just enough to let it slowly turn in your hand.
Not really, mechanical watches and mechanical clocks are very very different things. Watches for one are more complicated and also more compact, while clocks are generally simpler, less compact, and built with a totally different way of thinking I suppose you could say. They do both have gears however.
I have an old building temperature plotter that I rescued several years ago that had a rudimentary clock mechanism that had to be re-worked. It is indeed difficult to find anyone to work on or help ya work on timepiece mechanics. I had the best luck at a local vacuum repair shop, where the nice gentleman helped me get things SAFELY unseized and slowly plotting again. The thing had a large tension spring that would have leapt out of the back to slice me. Not so much a problem with smaller watches maybe, but something to look out for on their larger brethren.
IIRC it ran for at least 6 months on a wind up and I had made some new circular graph paper for it but never really used it. That paper can still be purchased. I have seen it used on heat treating ovens. Not unlike mechanical timepieces. Chart recorders are still made today of course they run off electric movements, not mechanical so the paper is widely available.
Any idea on the little inky tip? I was just going to try some pen tips and such but you may have an idea with more experience- I would love a shortcut haha. I will treat it with respect ; I nearly sliced myself just messing around with the coil in the plotter. All rusty and thirsty, it were. I can only guess it has vorpal capabilities flying out with force haha.
Everybody seems to have their own pens and paper, but looking at Grainger they carry quite a few brands, maybe one matches your recorder. Thanks for the linky : I have to replace the glass in the bezel as the glue strip is its age but should hit that up after it is in. I lucked out that the hammertone was intact. The mainspring on a watch is located inside the spring barrel.
You must remove it to clean the watch, but fortunately it is not as dangerous as the mainspring on a clock see my reply above, clock mainsprings are very dangerous.
In fact watch mainsprings are more or less harmless. Only issue is to make sure when you remove the mainspring from the barrel you do not fling the winding arbor or the spring barrel across the room in different directions. To mitigate this, place a towel over the spring barrel then pull it out with nettle nose pliers, the towel will catch the little parts as it flings apart. You should also check to see if your crown and pushers have been replaced if they have been marked down on the service document as being worn.
There are other problems that require a full service, and they usually read like a short horror story to most watch collectors. Brace yourself because these are the most common: a rattling or a strong vibration inside the watch especially if the watch has been knocked or dropped ; the glass being smashed shards of glass can end up within the movement ; grinding of the crown when changing the time or winding the watch; and condensation that appears and disappears on the sapphire crystal, which is a sign of water damage from not screwing down the crown properly.
Tag Heuer. This can include replacing scratched glass, a worn or damaged bracelet, polishing of the case and bracelet and de-magnetising a watch. Some manufacturers also offer in-house services, but many have a cut-off date for the age of the watch.
Many luxury watch brands , such as Vacheron Constantin, will insist you take your watch back to them so they can send it back to the manufacture for service or repair. Brands like Omega and Rolex make highly complex watches with myriad case, movement and bracelet combinations so you need to be assured the person pulling your precious Daytona apart and putting it back together knows exactly what they are doing.
Take Omega, for example: it is one of the biggest brands, so even something like the Speedmaster has so many types of case and a watchmaker needs to know about the idiosyncrasies of each one before starting a repair. You only know that through getting proper accreditation.
A watch winder is a great investment if you have a few automatics in your collection. Do ask questions. Ask the watchmaker what his credentials are, what exactly he intends to do to the watch, and what parts will need to be replaced. DIY watch repairs is an area of much debate. However, Haycock disagrees. Pollock agrees.
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